RT66 Day 16: An EPIC ride out of Sitgreaves Pass.
Welcome to California! Lots of wind and picturesque desert views. We were able to get in before the heat took hold. So. Many. Donkeys. In. Oatman.
Sara was worried about being too slow, but she has fresh legs and is currently leading the way — despite some issues with her lady parts. She can explain that situation herself in the video.
Today is going to be a tough one. We’re riding from Kingman to Needles, crossing a massive stretch of the Mojave Desert. At the moment — 5:44 a.m. — it’s already 64°F. The forecasted high is 97°F by 4 p.m., so hopefully we can make it to the hotel by around 2 p.m.
The route starts with a seven-mile climb at a 3% grade — basically one mile longer than Tunnel Road at the same gradient — but afterward we’ll be rewarded with a glorious 14-mile descent. Then, inevitably, the winds will catch up with us. I’m praying for no flat tires.
One of the most atmospheric places along this route is Cool Springs Station. We arrived before it opened because we’re trying to avoid prolonged exposure to the heat, but even from the outside it was incredible: beautiful art, sweeping canyon views, and the promise of cold drinks and food. I imagine if I were crossing this route on a motorcycle, it would feel like an essential oasis stop.
Cool Springs Station, one of the coolest and artsiest spots with great canyon views.
I had been especially excited to stop for lunch at the Oatman Hotel, but unfortunately it wasn’t open, even though the posted hours suggested it should have been. Still, Oatman itself is delightfully kitschy — like a movie set built for a Route 66 western. There are donkeys wandering all over town and throughout the surrounding hills.
Eventually, we made it to Golden Shores. Unlike the more tourist-oriented stops along the route, Golden Shores feels like a practical town where people actually live, which meant the food options were surprisingly varied. We found a great little spot called Silver Dollar Chuck Wagon. It was the perfect lunch stop because the patio had misters running, which became increasingly important as the temperature climbed.
At Sitgreaves Pass looking back at where we came from.
The ride into Needles itself felt effortless for me, but Sara started experiencing some serious chafing from her saddle. In my experience, cycling requires a three-day adjustment period for the crotch area. Then, on the fourth day, a miracle occurs and the girl parts become completely impervious to suffering.